Change router or provider? Decide with measurements

Updated 23 September 2026

Switching provider over a problem that was really your Wi-Fi is an expensive disappointment. Here is how to find out, in about an hour of testing, whether the fault lies with your hardware, your setup or your line.

Four measurements

Measurement 1: over a cable, nothing else running

Plug a computer into the router with Ethernet, stop all other activity and measure.

Speed matches the plan → your line is fine. The problem is internal: Wi-Fi, devices, indoor wiring.
Speed is far below → go to measurement 2.

Measurement 2: at a different hour

Repeat the same measurement during the day and in the evening.

Drops only in the evening → congestion. Switching provider only helps if you also change technology.
Low all the time → go to measurement 3.

Measurement 3: with another device

Test with a second computer, ideally with a different cable.

The other device is faster → your first device is the bottleneck: a network card capped at 100 Mbps, an old cable, an outdated driver.
Same result → go to measurement 4.

Measurement 4: what your line actually is

Check your contract or account area for what you really have: FTTH, FTTB, FTTC, cable, VDSL, ADSL. Compare your measured speed with typical values for that technology. If you are within the normal range, your line is doing what it can: only a change of technology will improve things.

Should you change the router?

Replacing or supplementing hardware is worth it in these specific cases:

Situation	Answer
Old router, Wi-Fi 4 or 5, large home	A mesh system or a recent Wi-Fi router alongside it
Good speed over a cable, poor Wi-Fi everywhere	Extra access points or a better router
Only a 100 Mbps Ethernet port on the router	Ask the provider for a newer model
A router that needs a daily restart	Ask for a replacement: that is a fault

Many providers replace a faulty router free of charge, or offer a newer model on request, sometimes for a fee. That is almost always cheaper and quicker than switching provider.

When switching provider is genuinely worth it

A better technology is available at your address: moving from copper or cable to fibre to the home changes everything, especially upload.
Your upload is too low for what you do, and your provider has nothing better.
Evening congestion is structural and has lasted for months despite your reports.
Price: at equal performance, competition can mean a significant annual saving.

Switching achieves nothing, however, if the problem is Wi-Fi, an old device, or the length of your copper line, which stays the same whoever supplies it.

Before you cancel: the checklist

Check availability at your exact address, not just your street.
Note the technology offered and the guaranteed upload, not just download.
Look at cancellation fees on your current contract and the commitment period on the new one.
Plan continuity: keep the old service for a few days if your work depends on it.
Keep your measurements: you will use them to check the new plan delivers.

Once switched, measure again under the same conditions: same spot, same cable, same hours. That is the only way to know whether you actually gained anything.

Test my speed now

Frequently asked questions

How do I know whether the problem is the router or the line?

Measure over a cable plugged straight into the router: if speed is good, the line is fine and the problem is your indoor network. If it is poor over a cable with nothing else running, it is the line or the router itself.

Can my provider give me a newer router?

Often yes, free when it is faulty and for a fee for a better model. Ask before considering cancellation: it is faster and less risky.

Should I buy my own router?

It helps for covering a large home or getting better features, such as anti-bufferbloat management. It does not change the line's speed, and some providers require their own box for TV or phone service.